Onomichi Model Course: A Half-Day Walk from the Station to the Slopes of Mt. Senkoji and Mukaishima

千光寺山から見下ろした尾道の町並みと尾道水道、対岸の向島 Chūgoku region
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Even with just half a day on foot from the station, you can enjoy Onomichi’s slopes, the view from Mt. Senkoji, and a ferry ride over to Mukaishima.

In this article, I introduce a half-day model course on foot from Onomichi Station, based on the order in which I actually walked it on August 21, 2026. I have also included the times recorded on my photos, so please use them as a guide for planning your time.

What you will learn in this article

  • A half-day Onomichi sightseeing model course on foot from Onomichi Station
  • The route (the stone steps at the Jikōji railroad crossing → Mt. Senkoji → Mukaishima → Onomichi ramen) and the photo timestamps
  • Fares and operating hours of the Senkoji-yama Ropeway (checked on the official website on October 27, 2026)
  • Things to keep in mind when walking the slopes

I wrote about how I planned the trip to Onomichi in Hiroshima Travelogue, Preparation: The Reckless 3-Day, 2-Night Plan I Made Because I Wanted to Visit Onomichi (Japanese).

Overview of the Onomichi Model Course (On Foot from the Station, Half a Day)

First, here is the order in which I walked that day. The times are the timestamps of my photos (Japan time), so they show roughly when I reached each place.

Time (photo)PlaceNotes
Around 8:52Arrive at Onomichi StationBy train to Onomichi
Around 9:43Shimanami Rent-a-Cycle in front of the stationRight in front of the station
Around 10:23Jikōji railroad crossingClimb the stone steps from here
Around 11:08Looking down on the Onomichi Channel from Mt. SenkojiThe view from the top of the slopes
Around 12:00–12:30Cross to Mukaishima by ferry and return to OnomichiThe opposite shore, a few minutes by boat
Around 13:07Onomichi ramen at Kuishinbo SenryoLunch near the station
Around 13:25Platform of Onomichi StationOn to the next destination

From arriving at the station to returning to it took about four and a half hours. There are many slopes and stone steps, so I recommend wearing comfortable walking shoes.

When You Arrive at Onomichi Station: What You Can Do in Front of the Station

The platform and tracks of Onomichi Station, with the mountains of Onomichi in the background

The platform of Onomichi Station in the morning. You can see the mountains beyond the end of the platform.

Onomichi Station sits in the middle of a long, narrow town squeezed in by the sea (the Onomichi Channel) and the mountains. Right outside the station, the sea lies to the south and the slopes of Mt. Senkoji rise to the north. The course in this article goes up the slopes north of the station, comes back down to the waterfront, and then crosses over to Mukaishima.

The entrance to Shimanami Rent-a-Cycle in the Onomichi Station building

The entrance to Shimanami Rent-a-Cycle (しまなみレンタサイクル) is on the first floor of the station building.

The station building has an entrance to Shimanami Rent-a-Cycle. On the official Shimanami Japan website, it is listed as Onomichi Ekimae Rent-a-Cycle (尾道駅前レンタサイクル, 1-10 Higashigoshomachi, Onomichi / 尾道市東御所町1-10). Its hours are 8:00–19:00 from March to November and 8:00–18:00 from December to February (checked on October 27, 2026). Fees depend on the type of bicycle, so please check the terminal information on the Shimanami Japan website (Japanese).

However, the slopes and stone steps on this course cannot be ridden by bicycle. It is best to think of it this way: walk if you are exploring the slopes of Mt. Senkoji, and rent a bicycle if you are heading out to the Shimanami Kaido.

Climbing the Stone Steps from the Jikōji Railroad Crossing

Stone steps running straight up toward Mt. Senkoji beyond the Jikōji railroad crossing in Onomichi

Stone steps running straight on beyond the railroad crossing. The stone pillar on the left is carved with the words “Old Temple Walk: Jikōji” (古寺めぐり 持光寺).

If you walk from the station along the railway toward the mountain side, you come to a spot where a long flight of stone steps runs straight up beyond a railroad crossing. The stone pillar just before the crossing is carved with “Old Temple Walk: Jikōji,” and this is the entrance to the approach to Jikōji Temple.

This crossing is also said to be the model for the railroad crossing scene in the anime “Fafner in the Azure.” If you would like to know more about the locations from the series, please see Fafner in the Azure Onomichi Pilgrimage Guide.

Once you cross the tracks, stone steps and narrow sloping lanes continue from there. The path runs through a residential area where local people live, so please be careful to keep your voice down and not enter anyone’s property. Some sections of the steps have little shade, so in summer I recommend bringing water for the climb.

I visited in summer, and because it was hot, climbing the steps was hard. If you visit in a hot season, please be careful.

Looking Down on the Onomichi Channel from Mt. Senkoji

The townscape of Onomichi and the Onomichi Channel seen from Mt. Senkoji, with Mukaishima on the opposite shore

The town of Onomichi and the Onomichi Channel seen from Mt. Senkoji. The opposite shore is Mukaishima.

At the top of the slopes, you can look down on the town of Onomichi and the Onomichi Channel. In the foreground are the houses around the station, in the middle is the narrow strip of sea (the Onomichi Channel), and beyond it is Mukaishima. In the distance, you can also see a bridge leading to the Shimanami Kaido.

On Mt. Senkoji stands Senkoji Temple, known for its main hall built on a cliff. I introduce the history of Senkoji and the legend of the “Tama no Iwa” (Jewel Rock) in detail in What Is the History of Senkoji? A Symbol of Onomichi: The Stage-Style Main Hall and the Legend of Tama no Iwa (Japanese).

The view was excellent, and I could see across all of Onomichi.

If the Climb Is Too Hard, Take the Senkoji-yama Ropeway

If the stone steps are too tough for you, or if your time is limited, you can also use the Senkoji-yama Ropeway. Here is the information I checked on the official website (checked on October 27, 2026).

ItemDetails
Fare (junior high school students and older)500 yen one way, 700 yen round trip
Fare (elementary school students and younger)250 yen one way, 350 yen round trip
Operating hoursBasically 9:00–17:15, departing every 15 minutes
Location of the base station1-3-3 Nagae, Onomichi (尾道市長江1丁目3-3). 15 minutes on foot from JR Onomichi Station, or about 5 minutes by bus (eastbound), right by the Nagaeguchi (長江口) bus stop

There are also discounted tickets available when you show a JAF membership card or similar. For details, please check the fare page of the Senkoji-yama Ropeway (Japanese). During the cherry blossom season and on days with events such as fireworks festivals, operating hours may be extended.

If you take the ropeway up and walk down the slopes on the way back, you can enjoy the atmosphere of this hillside town without using up your energy.

A Side Trip by Ferry to Mukaishima on the Opposite Shore

Mt. Senkoji and the houses on its slopes, seen from the town of Onomichi

The Onomichi side of town after returning from Mukaishima. You can see the hall of Senkoji Temple on top of the mountain straight ahead.

After coming down from Mt. Senkoji, I went out to the waterfront and crossed to Mukaishima by ferry. On the Onomichi Channel, which separates Onomichi from Mukaishima, small boats (ferries) carrying people and bicycles go back and forth. That day, I was on Mukaishima by around 12:00 and back on the Onomichi side by around 12:30.

Looking up after returning to the Onomichi side, you get a good view of Mt. Senkoji, where I had just been, and the houses built on its slopes. Seeing it from below, you really get a sense of having walked through a hillside town.

The shipyard and cranes of Mukaishima across the Onomichi Channel, seen from the intersection in front of Onomichi Station

Even from in front of the station, you can see the cranes of the shipyard on Mukaishima across the water.

Mukaishima is so close that you can see its cranes on the opposite shore even from in front of the station. I plan to introduce how to get around Mukaishima in detail in another article.

Onomichi Ramen for Lunch near the Station

The plaza in front of Onomichi Station, with buildings near the station in the background

The plaza in front of Onomichi Station. There are bus stops on the sea side.

After returning to the Onomichi side, I had lunch near the station. I went to Kuishinbo Senryo, a shop serving soy sauce ramen with back fat. I have put together the shop’s menu and how to order in Onomichi Ramen at Kuishinbo Senryo | Back-Fat Soy Sauce Ramen and Fried Rice near Onomichi Station.

Things to Keep in Mind When Walking Around Onomichi

  • Shoes: Stone steps and slopes continue one after another, so wear shoes you are used to walking in.
  • Summer heat: You will sweat going up and down the slopes. Bring water and take breaks as you walk.
  • Manners in residential areas: The slopes and alleys are everyday paths for local people. Do not stand for a long time in front of houses or enter anyone’s property.
  • Railroad crossing: The Jikōji railroad crossing goes over the tracks of the Sanyo Main Line. Do not stop on the tracks even when taking photos, and when a train is coming, wait outside the crossing gates.
  • Ropeway hours: The ropeway basically runs until 17:15. If you are on the mountain in the evening, keep an eye on the time for getting back down.

Summary: You Can See Onomichi in Half a Day on Foot from the Station

The platform of Onomichi Station with its old roof and green mountains in the background

The platform of Onomichi Station on the way back. The opposite platform still has old wooden pillars and an old roof.

Here is a summary of the half-day model course on foot from Onomichi Station.

  1. Walk from Onomichi Station along the railway, then climb the stone steps from the Jikōji railroad crossing up to Mt. Senkoji
  2. Look down on the town of Onomichi and the Onomichi Channel from Mt. Senkoji (take the ropeway if the climb is too hard)
  3. Walk down the slopes and take a side trip to Mukaishima by ferry
  4. Return to the Onomichi side and have Onomichi ramen near the station

From arriving at the station to returning to it took about four and a half hours. Many of the slopes can only be walked, so if you want to enjoy the town of Onomichi, I recommend starting by exploring on foot.

Related Articles on Onomichi

* Fares, opening hours, and other details were checked on the official websites on October 27, 2026. They may change, so please check the official websites before you go.

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