Look out at the sea from in front of Onomichi Station, and you will see an island right in front of you. This is Mukaishima. It lies on the far shore of the Onomichi Channel (Onomichi Suidō), and a small ferry (watashibune) gets you there in just a few minutes.
In this article, I cover how to take the ferry from Onomichi to Mukaishima, with fares and operating hours, the bottled drinks of Goto Kosensho, which was my main goal on Mukaishima, and how to walk to the ferry pier, using photos I took on August 21, 2026. I hope it helps anyone who wants to “cross over to the island for half a day” during a trip to Onomichi.
Fares and times were checked on October 31, 2026, on Ononavi (the Onomichi Tourism Association website) and other sources. They may change, so please also check the official information before you go.
Take the Ferry from Onomichi to Mukaishima
You can also reach Mukaishima by bridge, but if you are traveling on foot or by bicycle, the ferry is the easy option. The crossing takes only about 4 to 5 minutes, and it is a short route that island residents use as their everyday transportation.
There used to be three routes, but the Fukumoto Ferry was discontinued in March 2025, and the following two routes remain today. Both are operated by Onomichi Watashibune Co., Ltd.
| Route | Piers | Crossing time | Hours and frequency | Fare |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| Onomichi Tsuchido–Mukaishima Kaneyoshi Route (Onomichi Ferry / Kaneyoshi Watashi) | Onomichi (Tsuchido) ⇔ Mukaishima (Kaneyoshi) (10 minutes on foot from JR Onomichi Station) | 4 minutes | Daily 6:00–22:10, every 5–11 minutes | Adults 100 yen, children 50 yen, bicycles 10 yen |
| Onomichi Ekimae–Mukaishima Tomihama Route (Onomichi Ekimae Ferry) | In front of Onomichi Station ⇔ Mukaishima (Tomihama) (2 minutes on foot from JR Onomichi Station) | 5 minutes | 6:00–22:10, about every 12 minutes | Adults 100 yen, children 50 yen, bicycles 10 yen |
(Source: Ononavi, “Mini Cruising the Onomichi Channel by Ferry.” Checked on October 31, 2026. Inquiries: Onomichi Watashibune, 0848-38-7761)
For Goto Kosensho, the “Kaneyoshi Watashi” Is Closer
According to Ononavi, Goto Kosensho is a 7-minute walk from the Onomichi Ferry pier (Mukaishima side). Taking the Onomichi Tsuchido–Mukaishima Kaneyoshi Route (Kaneyoshi Watashi), which arrives at the Kaneyoshi pier on the Mukaishima side, gets you closer.
The pier on the Onomichi side (Tsuchido) is a walk east along the waterfront from Onomichi Station. The Ekimae Ferry pier is right in front of the station, so be careful not to go to the wrong pier.
The Kaneyoshi Watashi Is a Ferry That Also Carries Cars
The Kaneyoshi Watashi boat is a small ferry that carries not only bicycles and motorcycles but also cars. The Ekimae Ferry is a passenger boat and carries only people, bicycles and mopeds.
At the pier there is a small hut and a vending machine. When the boat arrives, cars, cyclists and people on foot all board together.
Riding the Onomichi Ferry
The boat I rode that day was the “Nyū Shimanami.” The Kaneyoshi Watashi has two boats, the “Daiichi Shimanami” and the “Nyū Shimanami,” and a new boat also started service on August 22, 2025.
The Onomichi Channel is only about 300m wide, so the far shore is already approaching almost as soon as you board. Many people ride on with their bicycles, and the ferry is also a route for cyclists riding the Shimanami Kaido.
After getting off on the Onomichi side, walk west along the waterfront road to head back toward Onomichi Station. If you plan to have Onomichi ramen for lunch, see also my article on Kuishinbo Senryo near the station.
Goto Kosensho | A Bottled Drink Shop Founded in 1930
Once you cross to Mukaishima, Goto Kosensho is a place you should definitely stop by. Founded in 1930 (Shōwa 5), it is a factory and shop that makes bottled cider and ramune, and its signature product is Marugo Cider.
In April 2021 (Reiwa 3), when the business was about to close because there was no successor, the current fourth-generation owner took it over (according to the official online shop).
Next to the entrance is a sign reading “Nostalgic ramune and cider available.” Inside, rows of bottles stand in yellow and wooden crates.
Choosing Marugo Cider and Other Bottled Drinks
The mark on the bottle cap, a “5” inside a circle, is the symbol of “Marugo.” Besides cider, many kinds of bottles are lined up, such as Onomichi Ginger Ale, Kaiju Cider (Kaiju Lemon) made with lemons from Setoda, Onomichi Bungaku Cider and Onomichi Craft Cola.
The price tags on the counter list Yapone C (mikan orange), coffee, milkshake, cream soda, Marugo Cider and more, each marked “*Bottle must be returned.” The old-style bottles are no longer made and are very precious, so the rule is to drink at the shop and return the bottle. According to Ononavi, bottled drinks start from 360 yen each (checked on October 31, 2026).
There were also plastic takeout cups for when you cannot finish your drink.
The cider was a classic, old-fashioned cider, and it was extremely delicious.
Products You Can Take Home and Souvenirs
Apart from the returnable bottled drinks, there are also products with “TAKE OUT OK” and “Nationwide shipping” tags (as of my visit in August 2026). Kaiju Cider, Onomichi Bungaku Cider, Kaiju Lemon squid tempura snacks, clear folders made in collaboration with a café on Mukaishima, and other items make good souvenirs.
There are also goods such as tote bags and stickers with the “Goto Kosensho” name, retro bottle openers and empty ramune bottles. If you want to drink Marugo Cider at home, you can also order it from the official online shop (Goto Kosensho powered by BASE) (Japanese).
A Retro Game Machine Inside the Shop
Inside the shop there was also an old game machine called “Cat Father,” played with 10-yen coins. You flick a 10-yen coin with a handle and try to move it all the way to the boss. Feeling this Shōwa-era atmosphere while sipping a bottled drink is part of the fun of Goto Kosensho.
Goto Kosensho Basic Information
| Address | 755-2 Mukaishima-chō, Onomichi City, Hiroshima Prefecture (広島県尾道市向島町755-2) |
| Phone | 0848-44-1768 |
| Hours | 8:30–17:30 |
| Closed | Irregular |
| Access | 7 minutes on foot from the Onomichi Ferry pier (Mukaishima side, Kaneyoshi) |
| Prices | Old-style bottled drinks from 360 yen each |
(Source: Ononavi, “Goto Kosensho.” Checked on October 31, 2026)
Closing days are not fixed, so it is a good idea to check whether the shop is open on Goto Kosensho’s Facebook page or elsewhere before you go.
Walking the Streets of Mukaishima to the Ferry Pier
From Goto Kosensho to the Kaneyoshi ferry pier, you walk along a street lined with houses. Unlike the tourist areas on the Onomichi side, Mukaishima is an island town where people live their daily lives. When passing in front of homes, please be considerate, for example by not talking loudly.
That day, it took me less than 10 minutes from photographing the outside of Goto Kosensho to arriving at the ferry pier (based on the times my photos were taken).
Mukaishima is also one of the settings of the anime “Fafner in the Azure.” If you want to include Mukaishima in an anime pilgrimage, please see this article as well.
Sample Route for Onomichi and Mukaishima
Based on the times my photos were taken, here is how that day went.
- Morning: Walk up the slopes from Onomichi Station to Senkoji Temple (looking down on the Onomichi Channel from Mt. Senkoji)
- Midday (around 12:00): Cross to Mukaishima and enjoy a bottled drink at Goto Kosensho
- Around 12:15: Walk along the streets of Mukaishima to the Kaneyoshi ferry pier
- Around 12:25: Return to Onomichi (Tsuchido) on the Kaneyoshi Watashi
- Lunch: Onomichi ramen near Onomichi Station
The ferries leave every 5 to 12 minutes, so you can get around without planning strictly by the timetable. That day, it took about 30 minutes from arriving at Goto Kosensho to getting back to the Onomichi side (based on the times my photos were taken). I write in detail about the history and highlights of Senkoji Temple in the articles below.
- What Is the History of Senkoji Temple? The Symbol of Onomichi, Its Stage-Style Main Hall and the Legend of the Tama-no-Iwa Rock (Japanese)
- Hiroshima Travel Diary, Preparation | My Reckless 3-Day, 2-Night Plan Made Because I Wanted to Visit Onomichi (Japanese)
Frequently Asked Questions
What is the best way to get from Onomichi to Mukaishima?
If you are on foot or by bicycle, the ferry is the easy option. The fare is 100 yen for adults (plus 10 yen for a bicycle), and the crossing takes 4 to 5 minutes (checked on October 31, 2026).
Can I bring a bicycle on the ferry?
Yes. Bicycles are 10 yen on both routes. If you are crossing by car, use the Kaneyoshi Watashi (Onomichi Tsuchido–Mukaishima Kaneyoshi Route), which also carries cars.
Can I take Goto Kosensho’s cider home?
Bottled drinks marked “*Bottle must be returned” are drunk at the shop, and the bottle is returned. There are also products with “TAKE OUT OK” tags and an official online shop, so if you want something as a souvenir, ask the shop staff.
Which ferry is closest to Goto Kosensho?
Ononavi lists it as “a 7-minute walk from the Onomichi Ferry pier (Mukaishima side).” Board at the Tsuchido pier on the Onomichi side and get off at Kaneyoshi on Mukaishima.
Summary
- Two routes link Onomichi with Mukaishima: the Kaneyoshi Watashi (Tsuchido ⇔ Kaneyoshi) and the Ekimae Ferry (Ekimae ⇔ Tomihama). Both cost 100 yen for adults and 10 yen for bicycles (checked on October 31, 2026)
- The Fukumoto Ferry was discontinued in March 2025. Watch out for older guides that mention “three routes”
- Goto Kosensho is a 7-minute walk from the Kaneyoshi pier. It was founded in 1930 (Shōwa 5), and its signature product is Marugo Cider
- Drinks in bottles marked “*Bottle must be returned” are drunk at the shop. Closing days are irregular, so check before you go
Mukaishima, just a few minutes across the water from the town of Onomichi, adds a different kind of scenery to your Onomichi sightseeing. After walking around Senkoji Temple and the slopes, try taking the ferry over to the island.
References (checked on October 31, 2026)
- Mini Cruising the Onomichi Channel by Ferry | Ononavi (Onomichi Tourism Association) (Japanese)
- Goto Kosensho | Ononavi (Onomichi Tourism Association) (Japanese)
- Goto Kosensho Official Online Shop (BASE) (Japanese)
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